Overwintering Citronella Plants: Cold-Resistant Care for Year-Round Growth

Overwintering your citronella plant can save it through winter with the right care—here’s how to keep it thriving through the cold months. 🌱 I’ve overwintered mine for three years now, and the secret lies in protecting its roots, adjusting watering, and giving it the right light indoors. The first step is knowing your hardiness zone, because that determines whether you can leave it outside or need to move it inside.

Most citronella plants (like the common Cymbopogon nardus) can’t handle frost, but with proper prep, they bounce back stronger. Start by pruning back the foliage by about ⅓ to reduce stress, then dig up the plant if temperatures drop below 25°F.

For container-grown plants, simply move them indoors before the first frost hits. The key is keeping the soil slightly moist but never soggy—overwatering is the fastest way to kill it during dormancy.

Once indoors, place your citronella near a bright window or under a grow light for 12-14 hours of light daily. The leaves might yellow or drop, but don’t panic—this is normal as the plant adjusts.

By late winter, you’ll see fresh green shoots pushing through, signaling it’s ready to head back outside in spring. The payoff? A plant that’s hardier and more fragrant than store-bought pots.

For colder climates (zones 9 and below), consider overwintering in a protected garage or unheated shed with insulation around the pot. Just check on it monthly to ensure no pests or rot have taken hold. With these steps, your citronella will come back stronger every year—no replanting required.

What you need

Step-by-Step guide to overwintering citronella plants

Here's how I keep my citronella thriving through winter—no greenhouses or fancy equipment needed.

Start by examining your citronella plants for any signs of stress or pests. Healthy plants will handle dormancy better. Look for yellowing leaves (a sign of overwatering or nutrient deficiency) or brown tips (often from dry air or fluoride buildup in tap water). Trim back any dead or damaged foliage with clean, sharp pruners, cutting just above a leaf node to encourage new growth.

This is also the time to repot if needed. If roots are circling the pot or growing out of the drainage holes, move your plant to a container that's 2-3 inches larger in diameter. Use a well-draining potting mix—citronella hates soggy roots. Water thoroughly after repotting to help settle the soil around the roots.

About 6 weeks before your first frost, start tapering back on water. Citronella plants enter a natural dormancy in cooler weather, and overwatering at this stage can lead to root rot. Water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel completely dry. You'll notice the plant's growth slow dramatically—this is normal and expected.

Move your citronella to a location with bright, indirect light (like an east-facing window) and reduce fertilizing entirely. The plant will begin conserving energy for winter. If you're in a region with mild winters, you can leave it outdoors in a sheltered spot, but bring it indoors if temperatures dip below 40°F.

Choose a cool indoor spot with 50-60°F temperatures—a garage with natural light or an unheated sunroom works perfectly. Avoid placing it near heat vents or in drafty areas. If you must keep it indoors near a heater, use a small humidity tray (a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water) to prevent the air from drying out the leaves.

Water sparingly—once every 3-4 weeks, or when the soil feels bone-dry to the touch. The plant may drop most of its leaves during dormancy, which is completely normal. Resist the urge to prune these leaves; they protect the plant's energy reserves. If any stems turn mushy or develop mold, trim them immediately to prevent spread.

When daytime temperatures consistently stay above 55°F, it's time to wake your citronella from dormancy. Move it back to a sunny spot and gradually reintroduce water—start with a light soaking and then wait until the top inch of soil dries out before watering again. You'll see new growth within 2-3 weeks.

Once new shoots appear, resume regular care: water when the top 1-2 inches of soil dry out, and fertilize lightly with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (half-strength) every 4-6 weeks

Yes! Try lemongrass (Cymbopogon) (Zone 9+) or catnip (Nepeta) (Zone 4+), both natural mosquito repellents. For Zone 3–7, rosemary or lavender (perennial in many climates) also work. Just note: None replace citronella’s potency—so overwintering is worth the effort!